Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Final Thoughts

Once in Tacoma, Wa, got off the bike and spent 4 great days around the area taking in a few Mariner's games, trip up the space needle and Pike Street market as well as some hiking in Rainier National Park. Who knew that after 2000 miles on a bike I would be completely sore and almost unable to do steps after a little 4 mile hike!? I guess bike legs don't translate into hiking legs.

Back home in Minneapolis, it's been really nice to see my girlfriend, Tram and other friends after 6 weeks away. Received many great comments from folks voicing their enjoyment in reading my blog throughout the trip. I was ready to come back though it's remarkable how soon memories begin to fade once normalcy resumes. There were some deja-vue moments from my Peace Corps days that occurred as result of receiveing questions on how the trip went. I had received similar questions after returning from Morocco after 3 years trying to sum up the experience for people in a way that they would understand. Impossible to do so I quickly realized. It was an experience so different, so complex, and so involved in a way that I could not find the words for.

Though this trip was here in the same country it was not unlike some of my experiences overseas. Sure, the beautiful scenery can be shown along the way in pictures but the most memorable moments occurred upon meeting total strangers who put me up in their house, fed me, or simply gave me great information on where to spend the night or which road to take or which restaurant to eat at. Other times I received the most enjoyment while all alone and I was... just riding. How do you explain those most simple of pleasures? Thanks to this blog most people already knew what a great trip it really was and one that I may never be able to duplicate.

This was a trip that, as someone I met described, renewed my faith in people and fellow Americans. The sheer generosity and hospitality that I was shown all along the way with the exception of the Motorhomes that tried to kill me! has made me want to be nicer to others as cheesy as that may sound. I was shown so much kindness as I toured SMALLTOWN, USA for 5 straight weeks that I hope to always remember it and be able to incorporate the same attitude back in the city.

Looking back now, I have tried to answer some typical questions about the trip.
  • Would I do it again? Absolutely! Already thinking about where I would like to tour next. I think by far, it is the best way to see the world. By car is too fast and too expensive and walking just too slow and boring. It was just so cool to think that I had everything I needed to live all strapped upon a bicycle.
  • What would I do differently? Perhaps train a bit more before undertaking such an ambitious endeavor. Maybe I woulldn't have suffered so much in the begining. Traveling West to East would definately be easier.
  • Equipmet changes the next time? I think I packed really well for my first long distance bike ride. I brought a solar charger for my phone that I wouldn't bring again. It's not like I was in very remote areas. Plus, the regular charger probably weighed less. Being a gadget guy, I couldn't resist the idea.
The common denominator I found among almost every other cyclist was the leather Brooks saddle they had. One guy said he no longer wears bike shorts his Brooks saddle is so comfortable! Wish I would have known that. And to think that I almost quit because of the butt pain! Other than that, would do it all the same.

Acknowledgements

I would like to thank the following people which allowed me to experience my most memorable vacation. Not in order of importance:

  • Tram Nguyen, Mpls, Mn. My really longtime girlfriend who has been my financial and emotional support for such a long time who bit her lip when I told her what I was planning on doing. She had every right to say "your ass needs to get a job and start paying for yourslef!" Instead, she knew what it meant to me and let me go yet still taunting me that I couldn't do it. I think that it was that motivation that kept me going up to 12,000ft on Day 2!

  • My parents, Somerset, Ky. Having just finished school with tons of debt they too probably should have said "get a job!" I will be forever grateful for them for their financial and emotional support over the last many years as I tried and tried to get through school, some of the toughest I had ever experienced. They truly went beyond the call of duty from loving parents. Cannot thank them enough.

  • Scott Backer, Mpls, Mn. Good friend and bike mechanic. Also could not have done it without his help with the bike prep before the trip. Also was always present on the comment list.

  • Friends and family from all over who made it known that they were reading and interested in my journey. Nothing better to be in the middle of nowhere, alone, and reading comments people made. Trevor always put a smile on my face with his way with words!
  • For their graciousness and hospitality along the way:
    • The Byerlys, Ketchum, Id.
    • The Huffakers, Ketchum, Id.
    • The Colliers, Halfway, Or.
    • John Mercer, Bend, Or.
    • Doug Moore, Tacoma, Wa.

"So that's all folks!" Tried to sum it up as best I could. Really a trip I won't soon forget. And this blog thing was the coolest way to remember it all!

In the process of making a book out of it so let me know if you're interested in getting a copy. Hopefully, I have inspired others to get out there and see the world slowly, on the uphills, anyway, from the back of a bicycle.

Monday, July 21, 2008

7/19 Allyn, WA-Tacoma, WA 32 miles LAST DAY!!






As fitting an end to this trip, the sun came out!



Got up early again, hit the delightful Firehouse pancake breakfast and back on the road for the final day. Thought I would be a little disappointed to be finishing but wasn't in the least. I was excited to give the body a rest, a long shower, laundry, a bed, and many other things. Furthermore, Doug had a list of things he had scheduled to do, namely a minor league baseball that his medical practice was sponsoring as well as a Mariner game on Wednesday.


Our little patch of grass in Allyn-notice I now have added more stuff to the back of the bike. Poor Dougie's back hurts! Started calling me Sherpa Shaun!


Was another great ride into his hometown of Tacoma. Good roads with little traffic and absolutely delightful sunshine that had been absent for 2 days. Though heard some groans on several hills along the way, my boy Doug did remarkably well considering he had been on his bike only a few times in the last week after having broken his toe.





Crossed another beautiful bridge over the Puget Sound and had just 3 miles to his house where the end to this fairytale of a trip would be.




There were some tentative moments along this trip where I didn't think I could finish. That now behind me, I feel so accomplished. It was indeed a great feeling to roll up to his house and get off the bike for the final time.




DONE!!





What a trip!!







I'll take the next few days to relax and try and put some last thoughts together about what this bike trip has meant to me and post one last time.

7/18 Artic, WA-Allyn, WA 72 miles

Got a better start this morning around 830 out of the RV park. We were headed out on the 101 briefly before getting a hopefully less traveled road once in Montesano. Again, the weather remained chilly and overcast. Blaimed Doug for ruining my sun streak!

Once in Elma there were some unlabeled back roads that we were trying to find. Stopped to get directions and found just a perfect riding road for about 22 miles into the town of Shelton where we were planning on lunch. Had been a very flat day that we were happy about and with the overcast skies, virtually no wind. We'll skip the pizza this time!

Doug had some friends on Mason Lake that we could potentially stay with and again found a great back road to get there. Unfortunately, they had just left to return to Seattle so we headed further north another 9 miles into Allyn.

Stopped by an RV park to spend the night but no tenting options. An old guy then told us to go down to the little town park and ask. Not feeling confident about our chances since they were setting up for Allyn Days this weekend I found a guy that was wearing a Security vest. Thinking that he was just a security guard for the event, turns out he was the Deputy Sheriff. "Sure, no problem, just set up over on the grass, water over there, bathrooms nearby and don't forget to hit the Firehouse in the morning for pancake breakfast!"

This trip just continues with the best of luck all the way to the end!

Tomorrow, my last day, a short 35 mile ride to Doug's house in Tacoma.

7/17 Astoria, OR-Artic, WA 68miles




Turns out Doug and both his parents showed up in Astoria last night probably to make sure he was in good hands! Had met his Mom before years ago when Doug and I were in school in CT though hadn't met his dad. His mom had been following my blog and thoroughly enjoyed it-as everyone should!
Through a suggestion by the hotel, told to head to the Silver Salmon for the best seafood in town. Fabulous food and Doug's dad ordered Sturgeon which no one had ever tried. Huge fish that comes right out of the Columbia river. Actually tasted like chicken! His parents took off shortly after dinner whereas Doug and I went out to pick up a 6 pack of microbrew before heading back to the hotel to catch up.
Woke up to fairly overcast skies this morning, tried to fill up on the hotel breakfast and got a later than desired start to the day at about 930.
The 4 mile bridge into Washington was the very first thing we would hit to start the day. Impressive and a little challenging since we has some decent crosswinds to contend with.

Stopped to take some pics of the state sign and joined up with Pete, Salt Lake City native who was on his way to Alaska. Ended up pedaling with him up the 101 for the next 45 miles.

Reached the town of Raymond after 50 miles where Pete was calling it a day. Great guy and amazing how the miles peel off when you are talking the whole time about our experiences on the open road. Before he departed though we hit up a pizza place for lunch since Doug and I were just famished. Turned out to be not such a great move since we wanted to get some 20 miles more up the road and we were yawning the whole time with all the carbs we had consumed!

Worse, we had flat terrain all morning and for the rest of the day were some good rollers. 17 miles up the road there was a town called Artic on the map but talking to the locals, all that existed was a tavern. Important though a tavern is to have at the end of a tough day, we were hoping for some camping options. So we thought we would check it out and see how we feel once we got there. A further 8 miles there were camping options if we felt up to it.

Got to Artic where there was a tavern and RV park. Walked into the old cedar-clad bar with peanut shells all over the floor and standing in a circle chatting away were a bunch of guys all outfitted with steel suspenders covered in mud and dirt! Obviously we were in logger country.

Needless to say we were feeling just a tad bit out of place walking in with tight spandex shorts. Before we got the thought of walking back straight out of there fast they turned around and asked how our trip was going and where we were headed, etc. Told us we could stay next door at the RV park and ended up having a really cool night with this logging group. Bought beers for us and just shot the bull for hours. We both just sat there smiling and laughing at our good luck finding this place! We were not in any mood to ride any longer since it was prety cold and had some rain earlier. Doug's previous best was 35 miles and though could have gone even farther wasn't happy about it.

Back in the RV park got ourselves a well deserved shower and we bought some wood for the first campfire of this trip. The tavern sold us some beer and ended the evening very content!

It was great to have him join me on the last leg. I had been writing about how great it is to meet all these great folks in SMALLTOWN, USA along the way and with these characters, got to experience it first hand.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

7/16 Cannon Beach-Astoria 20ish miles

Went back to the same restaurant I went to last night for dinner this morning. Could be my favorite meal of the day. The weather was the first cloudy day of the entire trip believe it or not! Wasn't too bad since the winds were calm.

Only had 20 miles or so to get to Astoria before meeting Doug and his Mom and hitting the bridge to cross the HUGE Columbia river to Washington. Along the way stopped in Warrenton for lunch and skipped the seafood this time. May have actually reached my limit for the time being on seafood though the three of us will probably eat some more tonight when they show up. Dilly dallied around the coast seeing one of the state parks that hugs the mouth of the Columbia and the Pacific. Nothing really spectacular.

This state's biggest industry is logging and being in one of the most beatuiful states I have ever seen I wondered how in the world they have enough trees to support the amount of logging trucks I have seen since crossing the Cascades. Sad, actually. A little bit of a tangent but I saw that some trees had come out of the state park.

Arrived in Astoria around 4 to check into the hotel. Was actually expecting more out of this port town but really not that pretty actually coming from the picturesque coastal towns I had just left.

Unfortunately, the last few libraries won't allow me to upload pics so I'll add them later.

Tomorrow, Doug and I are off to Washington. To start it looks like we have a scary 4 mile bridge to cross.

View of the massive bridge from the balcony of the Red Lion Inn
The Columbia, at least at this point of the river looks more like the Mississippi. We'll see if he can keep up despite the fact that he won't be loaded down. Should be a fun 2 nights out on the road to ride into his town of Tacoma.

7/15 Tillamook-Cannon Beach 40ish miles

Uneventful night on the grass in an RV park. Nice guy, Ron, ran the place. Even gave me a quarter for a shower since I was giving him a hard time having to pay for a shower. Will be nice to get to a bed shortly.

Passed through some cool little towns on the way. Stopped by a little coffee shop and didn't leave for a few hours. Sat talking to a sweet old lady for quite some time.
Knew I liked her when her response to what I was doing was "sounds like a great thing to do." Heard about her whole life story, battles with Cancer, the loss of her husband but lots of other more pleasant things. Got chatting about life in general and happiness. She said I had really made her morning having talked to me. Great to have all the time in the world to just sit and talk and drink coffee. Just another example of the sweetest people I have met along the way.

She directed me to stay on the 101 even though my bike route was showing another way to get north. Said it was much better to stay on the coast nearest the water. It was. Also told me to head to the marina to check it out as I was leaving town.

Went to the docks and found myself buying 2 Dungeness crab, $5.95/lb, what a deal! Strapped it to my bike and was planning on stuffing myself with crab for lunch. In the next town, picked up some butter, shame I had to buy a full box and thought candles would work since my stove works on full heat or nothing. So little tea cup citronella candles worked out nicely.

What a meal! Had seagulls all around just waiting to pounce if I moved away. Neil's leatherman is going to need quite the cleaning. Totally stuffed...I think I ate enough crab to last quite a while, at least for a day or two.
Some great views along the way!

Made it to the larger seaside town of Cannon Beach.
Approaching the town of Cannon Beach.
Beautiful little place with massive rocks sitting just off the beach that makes much of the Oregon coast so unique. Salmon for the first time was on the menu. Has become over the years one of my favorites, certainly when fresh. Hope to have more in Seattle.

The really only times where some loneliness has set in on this trip has been when I get off the bike for the night. Dinner alone and walking on the beach just isn't the same without someonelse to share it with. Though still delightfull, would have been much better with my special Asian by my side. (Aren't I just the sweetest?)

7/14 Pacific City-Tillamook 40ish miles

My cellphone/alarm started squawking at 4am to my dismay in the total darkness. This better be worth it I was thinking! The fish better be biting.
Linked up with the crew of the Dory that I explained yesterday. Cool boat and apparently more seaworthy than a Boston Whaler. Our captain built it himself.
Took off from the beach which was a little unusual but this boat is unusual. Heading out 30minutes to a place called the Wall which is a Cape Lookout and shielded us from the wind for the most part. Lots of fish according to the fish finder on board. Took a while but I pulled in the first fish which was a Ling Cod, the best tasting fish of the Cod family so they say.

So I was thinking, could turn out to be a good day. Turns out was the worst day our guide had ever seen. 5 total fish in almost 6 hours! And so cold and windy. The others were small sea bass. Really disappointing would be an understatement since I was so looking forward to the eats of Sea Bass!

Had a 9 year old with his Dad and Uncle with us. He was having fun at least at this moment.

At the very least it was nice to be out on the open water. Not a total loss. That's fishing for you.

Got changed into the flattering bikewear and off I was back on the 101 heading north stopping along the way at viewpoints taking more pics of the beautiful Oregon Coast.

Reached the town of Tillamook which is a big dairy capital of the coast. Cheese, Ice cream, butter, milk etc. Along the way for whatever reason, perhaps due to the scenery, started getting a little emotional about finishing! Don't want to. I think I was just trying to gather my thoughts on how I would put all of this into perspective when I am done. Things I've learned, beautiful places I've seen and certainly all the people I came in contact with that made this experience so wonderful. But...save that to the end as I still have several days to go.

In the meantime, arrangements were made with Doug who was keeping our rendezvous alive by meeting in Astoria and riding into Washington together on Wednesday. Would be fun for the two of us though I'll have to carry some of his stuff since he didn't have all the touring gear! No worries though since I have been a pack mule for almost 2000 miles.